When someone tells us their first Clone-A-Willy cast flopped, the story is nearly always the same two minutes. The moulding mix went into the tube, the erection didn't last until it set, and what came out was a soft, shapeless lump. The silicone part is easy by comparison. So most of what follows is about those two minutes, plus the small bits of prep that make them calmer. If you haven't chosen a kit yet, our Clone-A-Willy casting kits are sorted by finish, from skin tones to glow in the dark.
What's in the box, and what do you need from the kitchen?
The Original kit in light skin tone is the one we'd describe as the standard version. Inside you'll find platinum silicone in two parts, an algae-based moulding powder, a moulding tube that measures 10.8 by 2.5 inches, a single-speed vibrator, a stir stick, a disposable thermometer and the instruction sheet. The tube is also the packaging, so don't throw it out when you open it.
What you'll have to supply yourself: scissors, a mixing bowl and spoon, a disposable cup for the silicone and a square of cardboard. That cardboard matters more than it sounds. You poke the vibrator through a hole in it and rest it across the top of the tube, so the vibrator stays centred while the silicone sets. Cut that hole before you mix anything. People who leave it until the silicone is poured often find the mix has thickened before the vibrator is in place.
A measuring jug and a timer you can read at a glance will save you some stress.
Will it fit? Measure before you open the powder
The tube is 2.5 inches wide, and the moulding mix needs room to surround the shaft on every side. If an erect penis fills most of that width, the mould will be thin in places and may tear when you pull out. Empire Labs says the Original kit is made for average size, and that anyone over about 7 inches long or thicker than average may need an XL vibrator and extra silicone.
Measure length and girth a day or two before. It's a two-minute job and it tells you whether this kit is the right one or whether you'll be fighting the tube the whole way.
One more thing to do in advance: trim the hair around the base. Alginate grips hair, and pulling free of a mould that's holding on is unpleasant and spoils the edge of the cast. Take out any piercings, too.
Step one: the mould, which is where it goes right or wrong
Read the instructions twice, because once the powder hits the water you don't have time to look anything up.
The sheet gives an exact water temperature and volume, and the thermometer is in the box for a reason. Water that's too warm makes the alginate set faster, and it starts thickening within seconds of mixing even at the right temperature. Get the water ready first, have the tube standing upright and within reach, then add the powder and stir quickly until it's smooth. Pour it straight into the tube.
Now the hard part. The penis needs to be fully erect going in and stay that way, held still, while the mix sets around it. That usually takes a minute or two. Keep the tube pressed flat against the skin at the base so the mix can't push out, and resist the urge to shift around to check on things.
This is why we'd call it a project for two. One person handles the mixing, pouring and the clock. The other person only has to stay ready, and a partner can help with that in whatever way works for you both. Doing it solo is possible but much harder, and it's the most common reason a first attempt fails.
If firmness starts to fade, push gently in rather than pulling out. A mould that has started to set will hold its shape better than one that's been disturbed. When it's firm, ease out slowly with a slight twist. Rushing this step tears the inside of the mould.
Step two: pouring the silicone and placing the vibrator
This part is calmer. Mix the two silicone components together in your disposable cup, stirring thoroughly but not so fast that you whip air into it. Pour slowly down one side of the mould so the silicone runs into the tip first. A few gentle taps on the side of the tube help bubbles rise.
Slide the vibrator through your cardboard square and lower it into the centre, control end up. A vibrator that drifts to one side leaves a thin wall on that side, so check it from a couple of angles before you walk away.
Then leave it alone. The silicone takes hours to cure, and the kit's own guidance is to let it set fully before you touch it. We tell people to plan the casting for an evening and unmould it the next day.
Step three: cutting it free and trimming
The mould is single-use. You cut and peel the alginate away from the silicone, so there's no saving it for a second cast. Use scissors to open the tube down one side, then work the mould off with your fingers. Trim any thin edges at the base.
Don't be surprised if the copy is a little shorter than you expected. The tube only captures what was inside the mix, and any loss of firmness during the set shows up in the result. Detail is usually the impressive bit: the head, veins and skin texture come through clearly.
If the cast didn't work, you don't need a whole new kit. The moulding powder refill box has two bags of alginate for another try, though you'll need silicone too if your first pour went into a failed mould.
Which kit should you pick?
| Kit | What it casts | Vibrator | Worth knowing |
|---|---|---|---|
| Original | Shaft | Single speed | Simplest pour; 2.5" wide tube |
| Glow in the Dark | Shaft | Single speed | Glows after time under a lamp |
| Plus+ Balls | Shaft and testicles | Multi-speed | Bigger mould, harder first attempt |
For a first try, the Original is the one we steer people towards. The medium skin tone and neon purple versions are the same kit with different silicone, so pick on looks alone.
The glow-in-the-dark kit in blue works the same way. Leave the finished toy under a light for a while and it glows when the lights go off. It's a novelty, and it doesn't look realistic, which some couples prefer for a gift that's more fun than serious.
The Plus+ Balls kit is the only one with a multi-speed vibrator, and the balls give you a handle to hold. The trade-off is a wider mould to fill and more to keep still, so it isn't the one we'd suggest for a nervous first attempt.
The vibrator in the Original and Glow kits is a plain on-off buzz. If you want a range of patterns, a clone won't give you that, and a ready-made vibrating dildo would be the better buy. Someone hoping the clone will feel soft and squishy may also be let down: the cured silicone is solid, with a little give rather than a lot.
How do you look after the finished clone?
Use a water-based lube with it, since a silicone lube on a silicone toy tends to turn the surface sticky with time. Wash the shaft by hand in warm, soapy water or with a toy cleaner, and keep the vibrator end dry. Empire Labs doesn't give the vibrator a waterproof rating, so no rinsing under the tap at the base and no bath use.
The clone has a flat base but no flare and no suction cup. That means it's a handheld toy only: not for anal play and not for a harness. Store it on its own in a pouch, away from other silicone toys, since silicone picks up lint. Our toy cleaning and care guide has the full routine.
What should you read next?
If the casting route sounds like more stress than you want, our dildo buying guide explains how to choose a ready-made shape and size instead. Casting a vulva rather than a penis? The same company makes Clone-A-Pussy kits, and the process is close to what's described here.
